8/50: Bristol/Clifton, Bristol

Bristol, like Bath, is one of those places that refuses to be placed in a specific area. It has been part of Gloucestershire, Somerset, and Avon, which gives you the idea that it moves around a lot: and its proximity to Cardiff, as well as its controversial links to the Carribbean, give you the impression of something that's been cobbled together rather quickly. Is it a port, a gateway to Wales, an upper-class Victorian haven, or a tribute to Isambard Kingdom Brunel? The answer, as you may have guessed, is all four, and this is what makes a rather fascinating hotchpotch of a city, despite its arguably chequered past.

While it is theoretically possible to visit Bristol by car, the traffic in South-West England's biggest city occasionally threatens to become chaotic: it is not necessarily jam-packed, but it is rather hectic. The main train station, Bristol Temple Meads, is about half a mile from the town, and if you're there for more than a few hours, it's best to get an all-day bus ticket for £3.90 into the centre, thus avoiding the busier roads. Either the 8 or 9 bus services from Temple Meads will take you to the main attractions and both are generally frequent and reliable.


Like Exeter, Bristol is very well sign-posted, and the city centre is not hard to find: once there, however, you may find yourself getting lost in a shopper's paradise, as various malls surround the busy streets. Fortunately, Bristol has much more to offer besides its compact centre, especially in the nearby suburb of Clifton Village, most famous for its Suspension Bridge, designed by a certain Brunel. As both I and my official tour guide Frances were quick to note, the area does at times feel like a shrine to Brunel, with many other buildings referring to, or named after, the English engineer. Clifton itself blends nicely with Bristol: important and wealthy, but with hints of originality, and in the case of Frances' house, memories of both Bristol's happier and darker times. The house itself is fantastic, but behind it is a rather deserted bunker from WWII: a stark reminder of how Bristol was heavily bombed. Incidentally, the house itself actually suffered a direct hit, but was later rebuilt.

Makes you glad we didn't live through the Blitz...

When it comes to the darker side of Bristol's history, however, most do not centre on the bombings: instead, much more focus has been put on its involvement in the slave trade during the 17th & 18th Centuries, as it appears to have been what made Bristol both bigger and wealthier. Certainly, Bristol benefited a lot from this inhumane industry, but the idea that it did not expand as a result of other factors, or that no-one in Bristol was against the slave trade, is perhaps taking things a little too far. The controversy still rages on to this day, but the museum on the British Commonwealth apparently does a good job of handling the issue: it's right next to Temple Meads station.

While it's important not to ignore the darker parts of a city (especially if you don't know it that well), not all of Bristol's landmarks are linked to the slave trade, and therefore can be celebrated: this applies in particular to perhaps Bristol's best attraction, the SS Great Britain, which is worth a day trip in itself. Launched in 1843 and returned to Bristol in 1970, this magnificent Atlantic liner is best accessed by a small ferry from the docks near the Cathedral (60p single fare), the ship has been brilliantly restored, and although the entrance fee of £10.50 (£8.50 for students) seems rather steep, it also gives you free access for the rest of the year: a definite advantage, because you will probably find it warrants a return trip!

Thar she, er, dry-docks!

The scale alone of the ship is impressive, as it was one of the largest of its time; anyone who is interested in either science, engineering or history will find it fascinating; and of course, the various hats and mannequinns dotted about make it amusing for kids and anyone who enjoys a good laugh! Unless the weather is horrendous, it's always best to walk around the deck itself and get a feel for what it was like to travel long distance by boat: and below decks, you also get a feel as to how much shorter the Victorians were compared to us, with even the first-class beds proving a bit on the small side! Elsewhere, the gift shop is worth a visit, doing a range of seafaring souvenirs: as my souvenir of Bristol, I bought a box of 50 SS Great Britain Tea Bags, which should keep me going for a fair bit of the tour yet!

An ingenious disguise...

Frances meets Brunel (former Blues Brother)

Not so much liner as whopper...

If you don't manage to visit the SS Great Britain, don't worry: Bristol still has much to offer, especially between Clifton and the Shopping Centres. College Green is the perfect spot for a picnic, and has the advantage of being right next to Bristol Cathedral: which, like Bristol itself, is a wide mix of different styles, and has the advantage of being practically free (a donation is suggested). It does not necessarily blow you away, but the stain-glassed windows of such famous people as Henry VIII and Lord Nelson make it worth a look-round, as does the Lady Chapel, which is surprisingly modern for a building that has existed since 1180. Indeed, the area around this part is particularly good for students, as the University is based around here, which has lead to a wide variety of good eateries, particularly Cafe Gusto at the top of Park Street, near the impressive Wills Memorial Building.

The Cathedral, right next to College Green

These days, however, the main draw to Bristol is not its architecture, but the man who's made a name for himself thanks to his skilled graffiti: the anonymous Banksy, whose recent exhibition at the Bristol Museum was so popular I didn't even bother trying to queue, as it would have taken an hour or so just to get in! In any case, as this is where he grew up and started his trade, you still can find a lot of his works on various streets, such as the one below, which we saw on Charlotte Street: some argue he's a genius, others that he makes outrageous profits from pure vandalism. Proof then, that to this day, while having a lot to be proud of, Bristol can't help but keep on courting with controversy...

Only a British person would use such awful puns...

Thanks to Frances for being a fantastic tour guide, to the people of Bristol for being a generally friendly bunch, and to the man who made my chicken and mayo baguette at Cafe Gusto: tasty doesn't even begin to cover it. And finally, a warning to cyclists in Bristol: in order to stop you going down pedestrian walkways, Bristol has a number of concrete "turnstiles" that are guaranteed to stop anyone on two wheels rather quickly!

Oh, and Happy Birthday to my brother Al, who turns 23 today. I'm back in Gloucestershire at the moment visiting him before heading back to Cornwall: not sure where I'm going on the tour next, but I'll let you know when I do!

Thanks for reading,

Chris